Neethlingshof has just released its sumptuous and spicy 2010 Malbec made from grapes grown with 40% less water and it hasn’t compromised the flavour, says winemaker De Wet Viljoen. “It is bursting with ripe black fruit and layered with notes of violets, dark chocolate and even a savoury hint of rosemary.”
This is a wine that calls for grills, roasts and hearty casseroles, he believes, and hastily adds: “And don’t be reticent about using dark chocolate or cocoa to flavour the dishes that partner it. They bring out all the wine’s juicy plum intensity.”
He is delighted with the quality of the grapes that come from three Malbec vineyards planted in 2003 on the westerly, slightly warmer slopes on this Stellenbosch estate. “The vines were seven years’ old at the time of picking and had really come into their own, producing small berries dense with colour and rich, concentrated flavours.”
Viljoen did irrigate but only just. “Supplementary drip irrigation is scheduled on the basis of soil moisture content readings. Hydro-neutron probes are planted across all the Malbec vineyards to monitor water levels. Irrigation occurs only when water content falls below pre-determined levels and would otherwise impose too much stress on the vines. We stop again as soon as the moisture reaches optimal levels. Following this approach, we have been able to use 40% less water than in the past. It’s a big saving but we are looking for still more ways to curtail water usage.”
The probes are installed across many other vineyards at Neethlinghof, that is a member of the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative (BWI) and the plan is to extend their use even further. With 98% of South Africa’s water resources already fully allocated, there is an urgent need to do so, he says. “As a nation, we have got to uncouple growth from greater water consumption. At Neethlingshof we have made this a high priority. We are already aware that by adopting low-impact farming, there are other benefits too. It helps us combat erosion and reduce vulnerability to the threat of flood and fire.”
Viljoen says that in a bid to conserve the integrity of the property and rehabilitate the indigenous habitat, the granite outcrops in and amongst the Malbec vineyards have been left undisturbed and that wild olives have taken root, supporting their own little ecosystems of indigenous insect life.
Neethlingshof also follows an integrated pest management programme with the introduction in recent years of caracal, owls and snakes on the farm.
Returning to the newly released wine, he says all but 15% of the final blend spent eight months in a combination of Hungarian and French oak barrels. “By including a portion of unwooded wine in the blend, we were able to amplify its vibrant fruit characters. When it came to wooding, we applied a very light touch, with just 10% new barrels and the rest second-fill. We wanted the expressive black fruit, floral and savoury notes to come through very clearly and to my mind they have done just that.
“Even though the wine is relatively young, it is very plush and smooth on the palate with approachable tannins but it has been structured to age for at least five years.”
The 2010 Malbec is available from selected stockists nationally and is expected to sell for around R70 a bottle.
